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Update - 3rd September 2005

FUN FROM THE FIELD 7
The kerempt rains have been bountiful in Tigray this year. These are the long summer rains which extend from about mid June until mid-September. This means that barring a locust plague or other man-made or natural disasters the harvests should be good. However due to widespread poverty in the region food assistance is still required for many of the rural population. A National Government Safety Net Programme attempts to ensure that the most vulnerable receive food or cash through a series of intervention projects such as road building, environmental work and so on. We are trying to ensure that people with disabilities who are among the most vulnerable are included in all government and non-government development programs. Not an easy task but one to which we are committed.

Well in addition to work I have been invited to three coffee ceremonies during the past two weeks. The coffee ceremony in Ethiopia is one of the most significant social/cultural events in the lives of most Ethiopians. My first introduction to a coffee ceremony was in Shagareb Refugee Camp in 1985. I was invited into the tent of a Tigrayan expecting to be in and out within about ten minutes - very busy lady then with lots to do!!!! About forty minutes later I emerged after drinking about four cups of coffee (very small cups). Even in the refugee camp many people would exchange food for coffee (boona) beans.

In the right context the ceremony is a very relaxing way to socialize and is the traditional way of offering friendship. The woman is the coffee maker and is often dressed in the kemish (full traditional dress) seated on a small low stool. Green grass (yonas haille) is spread around the coffee ceremony area. It is for ‘good smelling’. There is a small tin charcoal burner in which to roast the coffee beans, a small clay pot for gum arabic, a small clay coffee pot (cemina) and a tray with about six small cups (finchal). Popcorn(embeba) is scattered over the greenery. The coffee beans are roasted OH what a wonderful smel l - heaven - as the aroma drifts up from the roasted beans the little tin roasting pan is passed in front of ach guest and one waves the aroma towards one to inhale the gorgeous smell. The roasted beans are then pounded in a wooden pestle and then put into the coffee pot and water added. It is left to brew for awhile and the first cup is then poured. Sugar can be added if one likes it sweet. I prefer the straight stuff. To be polite one must have at least three cups - 1- abbonn (very tasteful) 2- tawnna (more tasteful) and bereka (not sure what this one means). While drinking the coffee one munches on popcorn (from a bowl-not off the floor) and hambusha (round flat bread). The ceremony can be enhanced by the playing of a traditional stringed instrument called the krar which has five strings and in the right hands can be very melodious. (the Tigrayan spelling above may not be accurate-phonetic!!!)

One of my coffee ceremonies was with Amanuel, his wife LemLem and Yonas a friend of the couple. Amanuel (then called Sebhat) was one of our disabled students way back in the Sudan in 1987. Amanuel is an amputee who is also a guitarist (electric) and is a member of a band of disabled persons who have been performing together for many years. His wife, Lem Lem, who is very beautiful, is a singer and dancer. She gives voluntary service as a singer to the Ethiopian Red Cross in the HIV/AIDS prevention campaign. They live in a tiny room, about 4x4 metres in a compound with about six other families (who also live in one room). Their bed, chairs, cupboards, in fact all their possessions need to fit into this space.

In addition to the coffee ceremony they had also prepared a mea l- macaroni with a tomato and vegetable sauce, bread (bani) and a meat dish - they were not sure if I ate enjera, the basic national food (which I do). The food was accompanied with bottles of coke and ambo (which I love-something like soda water but better). It was one of the most pleasant two-three hours I have spent since my arrival in Tigray. These are the events I most enjoy rather than more formal up-market events. It is also very humbling as Amanuel and LemLem had spent time and money on buying and preparing food and drinks. Their income is practically subsistence as neither of them work consistently. The warmth and hospitality of so many who have so little still continues to astound me.

‘Til next time,
Take care,
Helen 3rd September 2005.