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Update 9 - 13th August 2005

FUN FROM THE FIELD 5: MORE BITS AND PIECES
The rain is teeming down outside - gallons of water rushing from the down pipes and gushing on to the concrete yard to disappear under the gate to the street outside. In this, often, rain starved country I want to save every drop but I can’t. I did however buy a large bucket which I have placed under one of the down pipes. I use the water for washing clothes and dishes. Still doing my own chores so members of the Team start getting accustomed to doing your clothes washing in a large plastic bowl or in the bath - you will sure appreciate that washing machine when you arrive home. There is a copper wire strung between a couple of hooks in the ‘courtyard’ and I drape my clothes over this but I promise to buy some pegs before you arrive.

Saw this gorgeous little bird outside of my window just before the rain started. About the size of a finch - black and white with this luminescent bright green/blue back. Must get a bird book. Ethiopia is noted for it’s wealth of bird life. Have often seen hawks hovering over the terrain.

Went to ‘town’ this am to check on emails and buy some supplies. All went well on the emails for about twenty minutes then power off and though it came on after about ten minutes I could not get connected on the internet - tried various places but with the same results - inshallah.

Started getting a few items for the Team’s arrival. Such a bed sheets. Went to one of my favourite shops (owned by an Association of Disabled) to buy sheets for the double bed. The last ones I purchased - I was assured - were for a large bed. However once on the bed they failed to make the sides and be tucked in so I usually end up with sheets wrapped around me as if I have been fighting with myself all night. My friend in the shop vehemently assured me that the ones I had purchased were for a large bed so we got all these packets of sheets out to compare sizes and eventually I asked them to open a packet so I could measure one. Much to my surprise he agreed although it was rather difficult to spread out as the shop was only a few metres square. Try and imagine the look on his face as he was trying to hide his expression - crazy forengi. Actually he was very good about it. I bought the package.

Having purchased a few more items such as an egg slice and a frying pan, three glasses (came in a pack of three) - I now have 5 glasses - wow - really living it up. I set off rather laden down with my purchases to the bus boarding area. One has to know which area to go to to get one that travels to your specific area or you are likely to end up in the never, never. But I know now - feel very pleased with myself - it is also one birr in the bus in comparison to 20 birr for a taxi. There are however buses and buses!!! There is this system of buses taking it in turn so one is generally hustled into the next one ready to take off as they wait until it is full before going. Well the bus this morning was one of the, shall I say, less reliable. It may have been able to hold its head up fifty years ago but not now. I was in the front with the driver, clutching my various bits and pieces and trying to make room for the extra front seat passenger while noting that the driver was making all of these strange tugs with the steering wheel and gears. It looked like something out of Steptoe and Sons. When the bus was full about eight hefty guys started pushing us from the curb and I then realised there were no reverse gears. Having got pushed out we then straightened up and proceeded to wobble and hobble along. I must admit I was rather pleased to reach my exit point. I wonder when vehicle safety checks will come into being!!!!

I have not had my hair cut since arriving in Tigray and I am beginning to look like a shaggy bear. Have taken a few snips off myself but I am trying to decide if I will risk going to a ‘barbery’ - the name for the barber shop where the guys get their hair cut - have not found one for gals. I am still trying to pluck up the courage. My last experience with hair and Tigrayans was in the Sudan when my office female colleagues decided I needed to brighten my hair - they do it all the time using henna - which was ok for their dark hair but I ended up with orange hair. I couldn’t believe it. No matter how many times I washed it, I still had orange hair for x number of weeks - so embarrassing. Took to wearing scarves everywhere. Some hippy.

Still raining, so need to push a few more sheets of paper under the doors and windows to stop the rain creeping in - brought a mop the other day so when it rains I can mop the floor with the excess water. Howz that for water utilization.

I have become a soccer fan. Not much choice - it is about the only sport shown consistently on TV - in addition to my exercise classes (my coordination is getting better). However back to the soccer. It is a national sport in Ethiopia so all the males cluster around any television showing soccer - I even watched part of the match between Chelsea and Arsenal - see I even know the names!!! During our recent southern field trip we stayed at a hotel with a TV set in a corrugated iron box outside in a tree. It was in a town called Alimata where it is always hot hence the outside telly and chairs in the open air. Some of the world championships were being shown so you can imagine the din when the Ethiopian athletes won some of the running events. Only marred by a huge deluge which made us all scamper for cover. May be hot but it sure does rain.

It is interesting to see an added water storage feature - dams lined with stones which are covered with black polythene - similar to ours on the Farm. These are mainly in the Relief Society of Tigray (REST) project areas so they now have various water harvesting methods - shallow wells, deep wells, dams and irrigation. Many changes since the days when the CAA Shallow Wells team started digging shallow wells - that was the start and folk like Peter Morrison, Shane, Peter Dwan etc can be justly proud of being the folk who pioneered this work which is still a very important part of water conservation in Tigray.

A group of disabled folk took us to see a well they had dug by themselves. It was about ten metres deep and they had lined it with stones and built steps down to a certain level. They were justly proud of their efforts. The wereda (local administration) had provided land for them to grow vegetables. It really was great to see this group hobbling or hopping along on crutches or bits of sticks and being very enthusiastic about their project. Tremendous tenacity.

Another stop we made during our field trip was to visit a blind farmer. He was quite a character with his large floppy hat and keen sense of humour. He had been given a loan to buy a dairy cow and he took us to see the shelter he had built for the cow (by himself with help from his family). He was also digging a shallow well and had planted some vegetables which were just beginning to sprout. He mated the cow so now has a calf. The health of his family has improved by having a nutritious milk supply and he sells some milk and also makes butter. The calf will be sold so from the loan he and his family have been able to gain both health and economic benefits. He is married with two children and is certainly proving what can be achieved by people with disabilities if given an opportunity.

This morning I was woken about five am by the chanting of the priests from a nearby church. It is rather a nice way to wake up. Most Ethiopians adhere to the Ethiopian Orthodox Church. For many it is ritualistic or ceremonial. The women are the ones who are the regular church goers. It is quite a sight to see them gathering in their white, white traditional dress in the grounds of the church in the early morning.

Road construction is still a major activity in Tigray. Once again on our last field trip we encountered more road making - in the mountains - in the rain - still very slippery and rather hair-raising and awe-inspiring. It is a massive undertaking. There are huge caterpillar graders and other earthmoving equipment but fortunately there are also human labourers many of whom are building the retaining walls, bridges etc. This, of course, is providing employment for thousands of workers many being from surrounding rural areas.

One of the things I love about traveling in Tigray is the responsiveness of the people. One time we were behind a truckful of labourers who were looking rather solemn. I waved and smiled at them and the whole truckload waved, laughed and shouted back.

Until next time. Take care.
Helen
13th August 2005.